It's a question we get asked a lot in the Oliver Spencer stores around this time of year: single- or double-breasted? Summer suit purchases peak as customers contend with a multitude of weddings and smart sumer engagements, and understandably, we all want to look our very best at big get-togethers. Understanding the nuances of these two distinct jacket styles is essential to elevate your style game. Both styles have very different characteristics that you need to be aware of before you go all in...
The Single-Breasted Jacket
Theobald Jacket |
Belted Trousers |
New York Special |
The single-breasted jacket is a timeless classic renowned for its versatility and simplicity. It features a single row of buttons down the front (either one, two, or three, with the single-button configuration being the most popular for lightweight summer suits), creating a sleek and streamlined appearance. Single-breasted jackets are generally associated with a more contemporary and relaxed aesthetic, making them suitable for a number of different occasions, ranging from business meetings to casual events. The lapel width and style can vary quite a bit, but as a rule of thumb, notch lapels are considered the more casual, while peak lapels have more sartorial flare. The lapel width is a matter of taste, but it should be roughly equal to the width of your face at its widest point.
How To Style It
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Wyndhams Jacket |
Drawstring Trousers |
Havana Short Sleeve |
The single-breasted jacket's versatility makes it suitable for a wide range of occasions. It can be effortlessly dressed up or down, allowing it to transition seamlessly from professional settings to social events. For business meetings or daytime events, opt for a single-breasted jacket in a classic colour like navy or charcoal, paired with tailored trousers and a crisp dress shirt. For more casual situations, opt for neutral and earthy tones such as tobacco, cream, and olive green, all of which can be worn as versatile separates, with an open collar white shirt and chinos.
Theobald Jacket |
Fishtail Trousers |
Conduit T-Shirt |
You can dress down the single-breasted jacket very easily by pairing it with a textured polo shirt or a simple tee. All of our single-breasted jackets are unstructured, meaning they contain no canvassing or padding, which makes for a very natural relaxed drape, which is especially important when you're going for that laid-back look.
The Double-Breasted Jacket
Double-Breasted Jacket |
Belted Trousers |
Solovair x Oliver Spencer |
With its distinctive overlapping front panels and a symmetrical arrangement of buttons, the double-breasted jacket exudes a sense of formality, elegance, and old-world charm. The double-breasted style is often characterized by broader lapels and a more structured silhouette, but at Oliver Spencer we like to keep our jackets unstructured for a more relaxed drape. It is commonly associated with formal occasions such as weddings, black-tie events, and business dress codes that demand a touch of sophistication. The double-breasted jacket makes a bold and confident statement, exuding timeless style and refinement, but it's important to get the fit right. Because it has a squarer finish, you need to make sure that the jacket is adequately long.
How To Style It
Double-Breasted Jacket |
Drawstring Trousers |
Ashcroft Shirt |
The double-breasted jacket's formal nature makes it ideal for occasions that demand a touch of elegance. It shines brightest in formal events like weddings where you can wear it as a suit, or pair it with contrast tailored trousers, a well-fitted dress shirt, and a tie. The single-breasted jacket is much easier to wear without a tie so bear that in mind. The double-breasted jacket's inherent formality can be too polished for many casual events, but at Oliver Spencer this season, we have muted the formality by using beautifully soft and slubby linen cloths to ensure that the aesthetic is relaxed. You can of course wear the double-breasted jacket open if you wish, as did a number of stars at the Oscars earlier this year. This creates a much more voluminous silhouette than a single-breasted jacket worn open and might not be to everyone's tastes but it's worth trying out.