The Solms jacket was one of the very first signature Oliver Spencer silhouettes and remains to this day our most iconic piece of tailoring. It comes as a suit, but many of our customers like to wear the jacket as a tailored separate, because of the versatile style. It actually takes its name from a customer and long-time friend of Oli's, Philip Solms. Philip wanted a jacket that adhered to the traditional tenets of tailoring on the one hand, while also doubling as a piece of outerwear on the other. He wanted to be able to flip the collar when it was cold to afford him a little protection from the elements, without the need of resorting to an overcoat.
Oli's solution, and the thing that makes the Solms jacket so unique and versatile, is the hybrid collar construction which can be worn up or down depending on how you want to style the jacket. The collar is for all intents and purposes a hybridised Nehru collar when stood up, the one difference being the accentuated gap at the front. But it's this very gap that turns the Nehru collar into a classic notch lapel when turned down, instantly turning what was an elevated piece of tailored workwear into something altogether more sartorial that you can wear as a two-piece suit or as part of your rotation of tailored separates.
Solms Jacket |
Solms Jacket |
Solms Jacket |
Worn either way, the Solms still avoids being labelled as 'smart.' It certainly exists in the realm of smart-casual', but the unstructured shape and beautifully soft drape definitely provides an easy-to-wear nonchalance that no structured blazer or sports coat could ever hope to give.
This Season's Solms
Each season, the Solms jacket uses new fabrics to metamorphose into a new incarnation and this spring 23 season is no different, with a host options in a variety of luxury cloths to complement the three core options we do in navy and black. The core styles consist of our Elvin navy style, which is made from a wool and cotton blend, making it great for year-round use; and the Ellbridge navy style, which is made from 100% organic cotton drill, and also comes in black. There is also a seasonal version of the Ellbridge cloth in an olive green tone as well as a taupe version.
Solms Jacket |
Solms Jacket Mullins |
The Solms jacket in Rogers Ochre is crafted from an ecological wool, and, given the unstructured nature of the jacket, makes for a really versatile year-round option, with a beautiful traditional check pattern. We've also used a recycled cotton fabric to create a light indigo-dyed denim style that completely turns on its head the concept of double denim, making it something much more elevated yet intrinsically relaxed.
Solms Jacket |
Solms Jacket |
Solms Jacket Elvin |
Pleated Trousers |
Drawstring Trousers |
Drawstring Trousers |
For a more vibrant look, the Solms jacket cut from our ochre Bevan cloth is definitely a head-turner thanks to the bold tone. Once again we've used a super soft organic cotton cloth blended with 3% elastane to give the jacket and matching trousers a slight stretch, making them a great option for smart travel or summer events.
Above all, the Solms jacket is one of the perennial pieces you'll go to season after season thanks to its great versatility and timeless silhouette. Collar popped, or lapel down, it's a unique bit of tailoring that's worth investing in.