From polo fields to college campuses: the rise of the button-down shirt

The button down shirt that we know and love today, and that forms an essential part of our year-round wardrobe, actually started out life as the original polo shirt. Back in the colonial days in India circa 1850, British Officers were wont to play polo but found that their standard issue khaki shirts had long spear collars that would flap in their faces when riding. Hence a simple solution was found - add buttons to keep the collar points in place. They brought this style back to the UK where it gained popularity among sporting types, especially - of course - polo players. 

Brook Shirt Brecon Blue

Brook Shirt Rutherford Blue

Brook Shirt Rutherford Beige

When the President of Brooks Brothers was over in England on a sales visit, he chanced upon a polo match and noticed these button-down shirts, and seeing great utility in them, had his design team back in New York whip up a bunch. Launched in 1896, the button-down, later to be known as the Oxford Cloth Button-Down, or OCBD, became an instant hit across America, catalysed by Hollywood's adoration of the shirt, with messrs Gable, Astaire, Bogart, Grant, and later Paul Newman all proponents of this new casual design, before it gained traction in the Jazz movement and Ivy League campuses. Although it was initially worn with suits (Gianni Agnelli was a great one for this, often leaving the buttons undone in a show of individuality), the OCBD eventually became a more casual style worn with jeans or chinos.

Brook Shirt Warland Green Multi

Brook Shirt Camden Cord Yellow

Brook Shirt Camden Cord Brown

The 'Oxford' bit refers to the cloth. Button-downs are traditionally cut from Oxford cloth which has a weave similar to a plain canvas with the exception that several yarns are woven in strands together, rather than individually. This gives it a very soft and comfortable handle. The button-down became a motif for the Ivy League generation of the 50s and 60s, installing itself in the annals of preppy menswear where it has existed ever since. Hence it's a great shirt to wear with relaxed tailoring, blazer and chinos, corduroy suits, and beneath more sporty zip-through cardigans. 

Brook Shirt Camden Cord Navy

Brook Shirt Rowan Charcoal Multi

Brook Shirt Kildale Indigo Light

At Oliver Spencer this season, we have created some great iterations of the classic OCBD in soft organic cotton flannel fabrics, so if your wardrobe leans on a preppy aesthetic then you'll find plenty to love in this collection.